Career in Gemology & Jewellery Design

Overview
Gemology is the science dealing with the study of gemstones. Jewellery designers craft a wide variety of items either by hand or using the methods of large-scale production. Among the various fields of design, jewellery design is, perhaps, the only one which requires such an extremely high degree of skill and attention to detail. Traditionally, the art of making jewellery has been passed down through generations, kaarigars having inherited the expertise and skill from their ancestors. Today it is no longer necessary to have a family background in the profession since there are training school to teach jewellery design and manufacture.

According for one-fifth of the country’s total exports, the gems and jewellery sector is the front runner in India’s export trade, earning valuable foreign exchange.

Nature of Work

Gemologists are involved in the identification, sorting and grading of gemstones. They also advise jewelers/jewellery designers on the various properties regarding the suitability of particular gemstones in different metals and types of settings.

Jewellers design, make, repair, and adjust rings, necklaces, bracelets, earnings, and other jewellery. They use various common and specialised hand tools, and increasingly, computers, to mould and shape metal and set gemstones.

Jewellery designers use their artistic ability to create new designs for various types of clients and markets. They may also design the jewellery according to specifications of individual customers. They either work on their own or freelance. Permanent employment may be with big export or designer houses or in small exclusive set-ups.

Some jewelers also design or make their own jewellery. Following their won designs or those created by designers or customers, they begin by shaping the metal or carving wax to make a model for casting the metal. The individual parts are then soldered together, and the jeweler may mount a diamond or other gem, or engrave a design into the metal.

Gemologists and jewellery designers with relevant qualification and experience may also be involved in teaching and training.
In repair workshops, jewelers generally work along with little supervision. In retail stores they may talk with customers about repairs, perform custom designed work, and even do some sales work.
Jewellers who own or manage stores or shops hire and train employees; order, market, and sell merchandise; and perform other managerial duties.
Some manufacturing firms now use CAD/CAM (computer-aided design and manufacturing) to facilitate product design and automate some steps in mould and model making. Use of such systems should increase in the future; some jewelers use computers to design and create customized pieces according to their customers’ wishes. With the aid of computers, customers visualize different combination of styles, cuts, shanks, sizes, and stones to create their own pieces.
Gemologists are essentially involved in scientific/technical work requiring great skill.

Work Environment

The work of jewelers and jewellery designers is not physically strenuous, but there is a lot of work with detail and intricate designs that require intense concentration and may be tiring for some individuals. One has to exercise caution in manufacturing and repair shops because the chemicals, sawing and drilling tools, and torches a jeweler uses can cause serious injury. The delicate work on precious stones or metals with due care for quality and customer specifications can cause stress. Bending over a workbench for long periods can be uncomfortable. The use of computers may ease some of these conditions because applications such as CAD/CAM greatly increase the speed and accuracy of the design and manufacturing process.
There is strict security around jewellery shops and jewellery designers working in their own workshops also must exercise caution while working with precious gemstones and metals. Retail jewellery stores may have locked doors that are only opened by a buzzer, barred windows, burglar alarms, and the presence of armed guards.
Specialisations
Jewellers may specialise in one or more areas: design, gem cutting, repair, sales, or appraisal, In India jewelers prefer to speialise in stocking the design of jewellery in either gold or silver – rarely in both metals. Jewellery designers also specialise in designing either with gemstones or only with metal. Some may work only in designing costume jewellery rather than work with precious gemstones and metals.
Usually jewellery stores in India offer all of these services except appraisal. However, very few jewelers specialise in both silver and gold jewellery preferring to concentrate on items in one of these metals. Some jewelers also stock gemstones and deal in gem-studded jewellery while others prefer not to. Small retail or repair shops may be involved in all aspects of the work.
Physical and Psychological Requirements
People in the jewellery trade must have a sense of design, an appreciation of quality. They should be prepared to work hard. Individuals involved in manufacturing jewellery must possess great manual dexterity, creativity, integrity, and pay attention to details.
Gemologists need excellent powers of observation; attention to details; precision; the ability to concentrate; ability to work on one’s own; an objective approach and a great sense of responsibility.
The precise and delicate nature of jewellery work requires finger and hand dexterity, good hand. Eye coordination, patience, and concentration. Artistic ability and fashion consciousness in jewelers/designers are major assets so that they know how to make jewellery which is stylish and attractive. Those who work in jewellery stores have frequent contact with customers and should be neat, personable, and knowledgeable about the merchandise.
Study/Training

The main objective of the courses in gemology is to impart the latest technical know-how with respect to gem-cutting, sorting, grading, valuation and identification of gemstones. These courses, which are usually of short duration of 3 to 8 months, provide up-to-date knowledge of scientific developments in the field to students who can become skilled artisans. To join such courses what is required is a pass in the Secondary School Examination.
Jewellery design courses teach the rudiments of designing, different stone settings, various kinds of finish to be given to jewellery, techniques of fabrication, etc. The students are trained to design on paper giving complete details of size and weight of stones, the size of the final product, the weight in metal, etc.
Jewellery design and manufacture skills may be learned in technical schools, or informally on-the-job. Art colleges and art schools also offer programmes that can lead to a Bachelor’s or Master’s degree of fine arts in jewellery design. Formal training enhances one’s employment and advancement opportunities.
For those interested in working in a jewellery store or repair shop, technical schools or courses offered by polytechnics are the best sources of training. In these short-term courses students learn the use and care of jewellers’ tools and machines and basic jewellery making and repairing skills, such as design, casting, stone-setting, and polishing.
Generally, duration of courses in all of the above areas ranges from 15 days to 15 months.
Employment Prospects
In recent times the entry of branded jewellery has infused new impetus in the profession. And when it comes to gem and jewellery exports, India accounts for 70% (approx) Exports worldwide. There is also a demand for traditional gold jewellery in the internatioinal market.
The Indian gem & Jewellery industry is poised to enter the new millennium with great confidence. It has the to ability provide the world with gems and jewellery of a high quality and the required services that will enable India to acquire a sizeable share of the world market.
Job openings have shown an increase with entry of branded jewellery and increased interest in newer and Westernised styles. Self-employed jewellery designers can carve a niche for themselves provided they can satisfy market needs and continue to be creative at the same time.
With in manufacturing, increasing automation will take some time to adversely affect employment of low-skilled occupations, such as assembler and polisher when replacement benefits and cost outweigh the productivity of manpower. Automation will have a lesser impact on more creative, highly skilled positions, such as mould and model-maker.
The demand for jewellery is largely affected by the amount of disposable income people have. Therefore, the increasing number of affluent individuals, working women, double-income households, and fashion-conscious men are expected to keep jewellery sales strong.
Related occupations could be of gem-cutters, hand engravers, and watch makers and repairers.
Jewellers and jewellery designers are usually self-employed; many operate their own store or repair shop, and some specialise in designing and creating customized jewellery. Although jewellery stores and repair shops can be found in every city and many small towns, most job opportunities are in larger metropolitan areas.
An emerging trend is the increasing number of women donning top positions in the industry as jewellery designers and merchandisers. The rapid expansion of this industry has created a further demand for manpower.

Career Progression

Advancement opportunities are limited and greatly dependent on an individual’s skill and initiative. Designers working for small concerns may acquire experience, gain prominence through success in competitions and move on to larger concerns. Jewellery designers can supply to bigger stores and move on to prominent companies. Some decide to work on their own line but this could take time. Because the jewellery business is highly competitive, jewelers who plan to open their own store should have experience in selling, as well as knowledge of marketing and business management.